Travel in Spain-2011-Days 1 and 2

On February 21, 2011 we boarded Delta in Des Moines to fly to Madrid through JFK.  We arrived in Madrid the next morning (a 7 hour loss of time included).  The arrival process through passport control, etc., was quick and easy.  We chose not to have a car in Madrid, so we did not rent a car at that time, but chose instead to take the Metro from the airport to downtown Madrid, where our hotel, the Preciados, was very well located for the purpose of walking or connecting to the Metro in Madrid.  The Metro ride involved some walking to find the right platforms, but it worked well and we arrived at a stop just a block from the hotel.  The hotel welcomed us even though we were quite early (about 10:00 a.m.) and our nice room was already prepared for us.  After a short rest, we began our tour of Spain by walking down to Puerto de Sol,

puerto-del-sol

over to the Plaza Mayorplaza-mayor

the Royal Palace, and then back to the hotel.  Madrid is beautiful, and crowds of people were out and about, walking, visiting, shopping, etc.  We found a fantastic market with fruits, vegetables, fish, pastries, and much more.

market-1

market-2

This is indeed a very nice city for a walk about. That evening we were introduced to the Spanish custom of late dining.   The “sit-down” restaurants do not open until 8:30 and we were, of course, the first ones there, at the El Senador, when we arrived at 8:30.  The food and wine were excellent.  The language differences were not a big problem. 

We planned to travel in Spain and Portugal from February 22 through March 9.  We were to be joined in Madrid by a daughter and son-in-law on the 24th.  They were returning on March 7th from Lisbon, Portugal, whereas we were driving back from Lisbon to Madrid for a day of birding with a local guide on the 8th (which you have already read about here in an earlier post) and departing Madrid on the 9th.  With the help of the invaluable Rick Steves 2011 books on Spain and Portugal and a significant amount of online research, our plans were quite detailed before we departed from Des Moines.  We had made all of our hotel reservations except for 2 nights in Lisbon, which we deferred because of uncertainty about our schedule in Portugal.  We had reserved a car for pickup at the Madrid Airport on the day, the 26th, when we left Madrid to drive to Barcelona.  The decision to rent a car came after cost comparisons for the four of us traveling by train or plane on our itinerary in Spain and Portugal.  Car rental was far less expensive on a per person basis.  Although the rental agency would not guarantee us an automatic transmission car, we were offered one when we went to the rental counter at the Madrid Airport on the 26th, much to the relief of my wife.  She had been concerned about driving a stick-shift, and neither of our “children” had ever driven a stick-shift, so it could have resulted in my being the sole driver, except on the open roads where not much shifting would have been required. 

On the 23rd Barbara and I went to Escorial to see the Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial.  To get there, we walked from our hotel to the metro station, took the metro to the bus station, and rode the bus from Madrid to the bus station in Escorial.  We were on a very nice highway with nice views of the snow-capped mountains and pleasant farm fields along the way.  Escorial is a nice, smaller town.  We arrived at the palace/monastery/basilica about 11:30, but it was closed to the public until 2:30 because Queen Sofia was there for an event.  We spent our open hours having lunch at a little sidewalk restaurant in the old town and walking in the gardens.

view-from-gardens 

The Palace is huge and elaborate.  About 25 kings and queens are “encrypted” there in an amazing facility, the Royal Pantheon.  We understand that the “rotting room” adjacent to the crypt still contains the remains of the father of the present King, Juan Carlos, who died over 30 years ago.  He, Don Juan, was technically never King because Franco took control of Spain before he was crowned, and Franco appointed his son, Juan Carlos, as King when the monarchy was reinstituted.  So, controversy exists as to whether “King” Don Juan was really a king, and therefore, whether or not his remains can be placed in the Royal Pantheon.  And, to make matters worse, there is only one spot left, so where does that leave Juan Carlos and Sofia?

palace

The Palace, Church and Monastery at Escorial are full of beautiful art and objects, many plated with gold.  The sculpture of Christ on the cross is magnificient.  We became a little disoriented making our way through the labyrinthian facilities and had to hurry to get out before the 6:00 p.m. closing.  In the distance on the bus ride back to Madrid, we could see the the 500-foot-tall ganite cross marking the Valley of the Fallen (victims of the Spanish Civil War of the 1930s) which is the mausoleum of Franco.  We understand that it is currently closed and undergoing a long process of restoration, though it is not that ancient. 

 

valley-of-the-fallen

Tomorrow our kids will arrive and meet us at the hotel.  From there we will spend a day of sight-seeing in Madrid, to be followed the next day by a train ride to Toledo and a day of sightseeing there.

Yellow Rail search at Anahuac

Sunday, March 27, Barbara and I took part in an interesting “exercise” at the Anahuac National Wildlife Refuge in southeast Texas.  The Friends of Anahuac sponsor “rail walks” each spring to look for the elusive Yellow Rails and even more elusive Black Rails that inhabit the grasslands of the refuge in the winter and early spring.  Having never (knowingly) seen either a Yellow Rail nor a Black Rail, I hoped to see one  or the other on this, the first walk of the 2011 season.  That was not to be.  Our leader has conducted these “walks” for 15 years, twice a day for 5 days each spring.  Our first walk of the day, commencing a little after 7:00 a.m., came up empty for the 9th time in all of his outings.

group-walking

The going was tough.  We lined up behind a short rope with milk bottles attached as the leader and a volunteer pulled the rope through the grass.  Supposedly, the rails will not flush unless there is a lot of noise right beside them.  The 10 or so participants struggled to keep up, but we were all able to complete the outing.  The area we searched has not burned for several years and the grass was high and dense and the ground was wet, often with several inches of water hiding under the dense grass.  We were able to  stay with it, but we were exhausted.  Several falls occurred (with soft landings in the mushy, wet grass).  The best birds for the walk were good numbers of Sedge Wrens and Seaside Sparrows

seaside-sparrow

After the walk we explored some of the trails at Anahuac.  We were rewarded with closeup views of two Yellow-crowned Night Herons in full breeding plumage. 

night-herron

We then drove to High Island.  I have heard of High Island for years as a prime stop-over for weary warblers migrating across the Gulf of Mexico in early spring.  Either we were too early to see any warblers, or weather conditions had not been suitable to create the “fall-outs” for which High Island is reknowned.  The Audubon Society has acquired several properties at High Island.  One of these, Smith Oaks Bird Sanctuary, contains a rookery located on a U shaped island in the middle of a fairly large pond on the Sanctuary.  We were fortunate to be there at the beginning of the breeding season. 

egrets-with-color

The rookery was filled with nesting Great Egrets and Cormorants, and courting Roseate Spoonbills. 

nests

The Spoonbills were exceptionally colorful. 

spoonbills

One of the other highlights was the sight of light blue eggs protected by an Egret in her nest. 

egret-with-eggs

We enjoyed the spectacle for an hour or so before moving on to explore the beach at High Island. 

At the beach we were entertained by a myriad of Brown Pelicans, Laughing Gulls and several species of Terns as they dove into the surf for succulent raw fish dinners.

birds-in-flight

We returned to Anahuac for the afternoon walk. Our leader had located a somewhat less difficult area for the afternoon walk.  The afternoon participants included a foursome of young birders from Hungary, whose ability to keep pace with the leader made for a better chance of scaring up a Yellow Rail, but taxed us at least as much as the morning “hike” in the taller and wetter marsh.  Consequently we cut our participation short and found our way back to the road and our car before the search was completed.  Again, we found no rails, and we do not know if any were located by the remaining participants after we bailed out.  Again North American Bird number 700 eluded me.  Oh well, there will be plenty more opportunities.  For those of you who have never participated in a “rail walk”, I recommend that you do it sooner rather than later so that you have the physical stamina for it. Our guide indicated that he once had an 85 year old participant who managed it without apparent ill effects.  Personally, I would not recommend waiting that long.  Nor would Barbara.

Spain: Winter Birding near Madrid

On March 8, 2011 at the end of a two week self-guided tour of Spain and Portugal with my wife and 2 family members, I hired bird guide John Muddeford for one day of birding in the Madrid area.  John lives near Madrid.  He is an experienced Spanish bird guide and speaks fluent Spanish and English.  The day in the field with John was the icing on the (very nice) cake for me, and my wife enjoyed it also. 

Before giving an account of the birding, I want to note that this was my first visit to Spain and Portugal.  Because there were four of us travelling together,  a rental car turned out to be the least expensive and most efficient method of travel.  We rented our car at the Madrid airport after our first 4 days in Madrid, Escorial and Toledo, and during the next 10 days we drove to Barcelona, Granada, Seville, Porto, Lisbon and back to Madrid, about 2500 miles.  We avoided driving in the cities as much as possible, by parking the car and using the excellent public transportation systems.  The highways in both Spain and Portugal are first class.  Driving on the Spanish highways was very comfortable.  The driving in Portugal was a bit fightening at times because many drivers  greatly exceeded the posted speed limits.  This required constant, extraordinary attention to what was coming from behind.  In a week or two, when all the photographs have been reviewed,  I will begin posting my observations and my wife’s photographs  of the Spanish and Portuguese attractions that we visited. 

Before leaving for Spain I emailed to John Muddeford a list of the species of birds that would be new to me and that appeared from my old and outdated European Field Guide to be findable in the Madrid area in early March.  He diligently culled the list and added a few others that he thought might be of interest.  It boiled down to about 30 potential new species at that time and place.  We actually tallied about 85 species for the day, of which 25 were on my “new” list, and a couple of more new ones were added that were not on the list.  For a more complete list of what we saw see John’s report on his website, [email protected]

Perhaps the most iconic birds for me were the White Storks.  I had never seen one before the trip and ended it having seen well over 100.  These big birds are apparently doing well in Europe.  For centuries residents of many European countries have considered the presence of  storks nesting on their houses, windmills or outbuildings to be a sign of good luck.  Because of their favorable public image, and possibly also because they do not, I was told, taste good, they have managed to maintain a large population.  How they manage to keep their great nests attached to the tops of utility poles and other high vantage points, I do not know. 

white-storks

Other birds high on my list were Great Bustards and Little Bustards.  Our first sighting in this category was of a Little Bustard, flying across a green (winter wheat?) field at quite a distance.  The white in its wings made it quite apparent that it was what it was.  This was the only Little Bustard we saw.  The Great Bustards were a different story.  Surprisingly, they were fairly numerous and very visibile on the farm fields east of Madrid.  We counted at least 35.  I am surprised that these big game birds have survived the continuing encroachment of people into their habitats. 

great-bustard

As we finished looking at our first flock of Great Bustards, two Red-legged Partridges came walking close by our car.  The grass was a bit too tall to see their most prominent feature, their bright red legs, but they are a very beautifully patterned bird nonetheless.

red-legged-partridge

A very plain bird that I have seen mentioned in English literature but never before seen, is the Corn Bunting.  These tame little birds were present in great numbers, often singing along the fence rows or from exposed, weedy perches in the farm fields. 

corn-bunting

Although Rock Buntings were not new for me, they were colorful and very accommodating for my photographer.

rock-bunting

Spain is home to by far the greatest variety of birds to be found anywhere in Europe.  While early March was a good time for us to explore the excellent architecture, historical sites and art museums, it was not the best time to find the many migrating and summer resident birds of Spain.  Moreover, the Madrid area is just one of several areas where many different species can be found.  For those and other reasons,  including the friendly people, fine food and wine, reasonable prices, beautiful and diverse scenery, and pleasant weather, I plan to return to Spain later this spring for a solid week of birding, with John’s guidance, outside the Madrid area.  I hope to see 60 or so new species, which will, I think, be enough to satisfy my quest for birds in Europe.  And who knows, I and my trusty mount, Rocinante, (did I mention that I plan to travel by rented horse?) may even tilt at a windmill somewhere in La Mancha.

Belize Birding at Chan Chich-Part 3

Chan Chich and Gallon Jug are part of a very large private holding in western Belize, adjacent to its border with Guatemala.  They raise or grow all of their own food on the ranch.  Barbara went horseback riding one day and rode through the pastures in the midst of cattle, and also through a coffee growing area.  Chan Chich has been a birding destination for many birders for many years.  I heard about it years ago and it has for a long time been on my list of places that I wanted to visit.  Chan Chich Lodge has a dozen or so separate cabanas.  They are straw-thatched and very nicely appointed.  All dining is centered in the Lodge.  It was a step up from Lamanai, which, in turn was a step up from Crooked Tree, at least in terms of the luxury afforded by the cabanas and the Lodge.  As indicated in my earlier posts, however, the birding at Crooked Tree and at Lamanai was  not much different from what we found at Chan Chich.  On the drive to the Lodge we were able to observe the substantial damage caused to the jungle by the winds of Hurricane Richard, which hit the area hard in October, 2010. 

With the help of the excellent guides provided by the Lodge, we saw many of the same birds at Chan Chich as we had seen at Lamanai.  Our guides reported that for a while after the hurricane, many of their birds had disappeared, but were now returning.  New “Life Birds” at Chan Chich were plentiful, however, and included the strange and beautifully colored Ocelated Turkeys, which were very tame.

ocelated-turkey

A pair of Ornate Hawk Eagles was nesting along a trail. 

ornate-hawk-eagle

The Great Tinamous were quick to disappear as soon as they were spotted.

great-tinamou

This Crested Guan was watching us as we were watching him.

crested-guan

We saw a Sungrebe floating by turtles basking along the shore.  We also saw  Great Currasows (seen also at Lamanai, but better views here), a Scaled Pigeon (uncommon here, but found by Barbara), Gray-fronted Doves, a Squirrel Cuckoo, Long-billed Hermits, Scaly-breasted Hummingbirds, White-whiskered Puffbird, Black-cheeked, Pale-billed and Chestnut-colored Woodpeckers, and Ruddy, Tawny-winged and Northern Barred Woodcreepers.

The colorful Slate-tailed Trogon was always fun to see.

slate-tailed-trogon

We spotted a Plain Antvireo, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, Eye-ringed Flatbill, White-collared Manakin, White-breasted Wood-wren, Golden-crowned Warbler (the only Warbler species that is resident year-round in Belize), Red-crowned Ant-tanagers, Scrub Euphonia, Olive-backed Euphonia, and Blue-black Grosbeak.

The Mealy Parrots made quite a commotion around the lodge at breakfast time and again later in the afternoon.

mealy-parrot

Another noisy fellow was the Oropendola which could be seen and heard around the lodge.

oropendola

We stayed at Chan Chich 4 nights.  On the last day we were driven from the Lodge to Gallon Jug (about 6 miles) and were picked up there in a small plane and flown to the airport near Belize City.  This was a much better way to travel than on the back-country roads.  Belize is in the same time zone as Iowa.  We arrived back home, through Atlanta, about 11:00 p.m. that night.

Belize, formery British Honduras, is a small country of about 500,000 people.  English is the official language.  Afteer obtaining independence from England about 40 years ago, Belize has remained a part of the British Commonwealth.  In the west, where we spent most of our time, many of the residents have come from Guatemala and speak Spanish natively.  Without exception, we were treated in a friendly and welcoming fashion.  Everyone we met, even while out on the roads walking, greeted us with a smile or a wave.  Had we spent time in the more populated areas of Belize City or along the coast, we might not have had quite the same experience.   Friends who have taken beach side or island based vacations there, however, say that it was a great experience and they would go back (for the sun, the golf and the beaches, not for the jungle as some of their somewhat peculiar friends just did).

Birding in Belize: Part 2-Lamanai Outpost

The boat ride up the New River to Lamanai Outpost took about an hour.  For the entire ride we reveled  in the bright sun, blue sky and the serenity and clarity of the river and its jungle edge.  The only activity consisted of two or three small boats bearing local fishermen.  The only substantial human habitation consisted of  some Mennonite cattle and sugar cane farms and support facilities.  The Mennonites arrived in Belize in the 1950s and have established a remarkably successful agricultural empire in the country.  Most of the country’s  meat, eggs, corn and sugar production comes from the Mennonite farms. 

We docked at Lamanai around noon and were treated to cold drinks immediately.  The cabanas at Lamanai are very comfortable and attractive.  The Lodge, where all meals are served and activities commenced, was a short but steep up-hill trek from our cabana.  Our cabana overlooked the Lagoon and was on the edge of the compound, so it provided ample opportunity for birding right from our veranda. 

Lamanai Outpost provides guides as a part of the package.  During our three days there we spent time with three or four of them and each of them impressed us with their knowledge of the natural and historical attractions of the area.  The bird life was abundant.  We took a night cruise and a late afternoon cruise on the Lagoon.  Among the new “life” birds I saw at Lamani were: Agami Heron (seen roosting by the river on the night cruise), Collared Forest-falcon (heard only), Great Curassows, Brown-hooded Parrots, White-fronted Parrots, Yellow-headed Parrots, Red-lored Parrots, Yucatan Nightjar, White-bellied Emerald, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Tody Motmot and these:

Northern Potoo  

potoo

Violaceous Trogon

violaceous-trogon

Royal Flycatcher

royal-flycatcher

Blue-crowned Motmot

motmot

Collared Aracari

aracari

Keel-billed Toucan (the national bird of Belize)

keel-billed-toucan

Also see were Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Northern Bentbill, Bright-rumped Attila, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher,  Yucatan Flycatcher, Red-capped Manakin, Masked Tityra, Mangrove Vireo, Yellow-winged Tanager, Red-throated Ant-Tanager, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Yellow-throated Euphonia, Blue Bunting, Black-headed Saltator, Green-backed Sparrows, and Montezuma Oropendola.  A long list.   

The best bird at Lamanai was not a new bird for me, but the view that we had of a pair of Jabiru Storks was unforgettable.  As the sun was going down, we were sitting quitely in our boat with our guide when we spotted the first Jabiru flying across the Lagoon from the south.

jabiru

It landed in a very large tree on the west bank, quite a distance from us.  The tree contained the nest that this pair of Jabirus has been using for the past 14 years.  As the sun was setting, the second Jabiru joined its mate atop the nest and the two of them preened in a stately manner.  The storks are 5 feet tall and have an 8-foot wingspan. 

Black Howler Monkeys were abundant at Lamanai.  They made their presence in the tree tops very evident by persistently roaring challenges to other groups of Howlers.  Howler monkeys don’t howl; they roar.  The sound is very much like that of the lions we heard roaring at night when we were in Botswana a couple of years ago.    It is difficult to believe that such volume could come from these 40-50 pound monkeys.  They would be frightening but for the knowledge that there are no lions in Belize and the Monkeys stay up in their trees.  Often their howling could be heard during the night or in the early morning hours as well as during the day.  The quiet Spider Monkeys were more acrobatic, or at least more inclined to display their acrobatic talents in leaping great distances from one tree top to another. 

On day 2 we explored the Mayan temples at Lamanai.  These structures, some dating back over 2,000 years, were redicscovered a century or two ago.  Much excavation has taken place over the years to reveal the original architecture and art and to recover what might remain of the artifacts. 

mayan-ruins

Lamanai was an important trading post for the Mayans as it was located near the major lagoon that connected to the Caribbean and the eastern shore line of Central America.  Excavation and restoration has slowed in the past few years because of cutbacks in funding.  Nevertheless, this old Mayan city remains a big draw for tourists in Belize.  We saw far more people there than anywhere else that we traveled (except the airport).  Fortunately, the Lodge arranges for its guests to be guided through the ruins early in the morning, before it opens to the general public and the crowds arrive.  When I say crowds, I don’t mean crushing numbers.  Just groups of people, usually in the company of a guide explaining the history of Lamani.  It was pleasant to be there early  in order hear your own guide and take your time as your small group (7 of us) sees fit. 

After lunch on our last day at Lamanai we were met by a driver provided by our next Lodge, Chan Chich.  The drive was pretty bad.  It took over 3 hours to go about 60 miles to Chan Chich.  The roads were very rough and dusty and the vehicle was hot.  Our driver had the unfortunate attribute of talking very loudly and nearly non-stop.  My ears were ringing, among other maladies, by the time we arrived at Chan Chich. 

I highly recommend Lamanai Outpost for those interested in the combination of excellent birding and fascinating Mayan history and ruins.  The lodging and food are both good.  In the next installment I will summarize our experiences and impressions of Chan Chich.

Birding in Belize: Crooked Tree, Lamani, and Chan Chich

Barbara and I planned a trip to Belize with the help of Caligo Ventures.  Our primary objectives were to see the interior of Belize, find birds and see the Mayan ruins.  We were scheduled to leave Des Moines on January 11th, fly Delta to Atlanta and Delta from Atlanta to Belize City.  Bad weather in Atlanta required a quick change of plans.  We ended up going through Houston on American and arriving in Belize City pretty much on schedule as if we had been able to keep our original itinerary. 

The weather was generaly quite warm and humid in Belize although the nights and early mornings were very comfortable.  We were met at the airport by the driver arranged for by Crooked Tree Lodge, where we were staying for 3 nights.  Our cabin, one of only 6 at the Lodge, was spartan, but clean.  The lodge where we took our meals was nice, and the food was very good.  There were very few guests, so we nearly had the place to ourselves.  The next morning we were out early with our guide, Glenn Crawford, for a morning bird walk.  Crooked Tree is in flat terrain, on an island surrounded by fresh water bodies.  Most of the birds we saw that first morning were the same ones we see regularly in migration in the U.S.  Glenn is a 4th generation Belizian and knows the territory and the birds.  We learned of the local agricultural activities, including harvesting cashews, perhaps the biggest local crop. (Later, due to the hospitality of a young couple that joined us for dinner at the Lodge, we sampled the local Cashew Wine.  It reminded us of a nice Sherry.) Much of the land is quite sandy and still in a natural condition, providing good habitat.  We walked hard and covered a good deal of territory. 

Good birds for the morning, which started at 6:30 a.m., included a Gray-necked Wood Rail (previously seen in Costa Rica), and the following new life birds:  Pale-vented Pigeon, Plain-breasted Ground Dove, Olive-throated Parakeets, Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds (numerous), Red-vented Woodpecker (formerly known as Yucatan Woodpecker), Lineated Woodpecker, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper,  Tropical Pewee, Yucatan Flycatcher, Variable Seedeaters, Blue-black Grassquits, and Black-cowled Orioles.  Substantial numbers of other birds of species I have previously seen were also present.  We were excited to see the Great Kiskadees in courtship mode. 

kiskadee

We had lunch and ventured out around the Lodge area for a couple of hours before Glenn met us for an afternoon walk.  My most exciting finds were a Black-crowned Tityra and a Spot-breasted Wood -wren. 

black-crowned-tityra

Migratory wood warblers of the various species that we commonly see in spring or fall, were present in good numbers.  We spent the afternoon with Glenn, exploring other areas near the Lodge.  Among the more interesting  birds spotted this afternoon were: Crane Hawk (not new), Ruddy Quail-dove (a fleeting glimpse), Canivet’s Emerald, and, after a long search, the best bird of our stay at Crooked Tree, Yucatan Jays.  There were at least 30 of these beautiful birds harvesting the insects that were leaving their burrows in the woods to escape a marauding Army Ant swarm.  They ignored us and allowed close approaches in their greed for more bugs.

yucatan-jay

Day 2 at Crooked Tree began with a short drive to the lagoon, where we were joined by 2 other couples for an early morning cruise.  Glenn’s brother, Rudy, served as guide and another brother, Robert, was in charge of piloting the boat.  Rudy proved himself very proficient in spotting and identifying the birds.  Today produced several more interesting birds, including a Bat Falcon, numbers of common water birds, including a Bare-throated Tiger-heron and numbers of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, a Black-collared Hawk, a Black-headed Trogon, a Yellow-billed Cacique and a Yellow-tailed Oriole. 

black-headed-trogon

We returned to the Lodge for the afternoon and birded on our own for the rest of the day.  The next morning Rudy drove us the 1 hour to the Lamani Outpost Lodge river transfer point on the New River, where we boarded a fast boat for the long ride up-river (south) to the Lamanai Outpost Lodge.  The morning was clear and cool and the boat ride was fantastic.  For the next 3 nights we would be staying at Lamanai Outpost Lodge and would include in our itinerary a tour of the Mayan temples at Lamani. I will write about that segment of our trip soon.

One day for rare Orioles, Robins and Thrushes in South Texas

I arrived at Bentsen (Texas) State Park in the lower Rio Grande Valley a little after 7:30 a.m on Thursday, January 6th.  The NARBA (North American Rare Bird Alert) had reported that a Black-vented Oriole was being seen in the Park and in the adjoining Bentsen Palm Village RV Park.  The best chances appeared to be in the RV Park.  As I walked to the RV Park I was met by some smiling birders.  The “bird”, they reported, was seen in the RV Park at 7:20, but had flown away.  “No worries”, said one of the ladies; “He will be back”.  So I moved on until I spotted the familiar cluster of tripod-mounted telescopes and binocular laden humans, all pointing at a red-flowering tree beside one of the driveways in the RV Park.  The relaxed attitudes and lack of focus in the group told me that the bird was not there at the moment.  Within 10 minutes, however, he (or she?) reappeared, feeding on the red-flowers of the Coral Bean Tree, obligingly growing and flowering right across the street from where we visitors to the  RV Park were graciously allowed to congregate on this private property. 

To see the Black-vented Oriole so quickly (and so well) was a major surprise and a terrific way to start my day of birding in South Texas.  Just a few weeks ago I was fortunate to find a pair of Streak-backed Orioles near Yuma, Arizona, constituting the 9th of the 10 Oriole species that have ever been seen (documented) in North America.  The Streak-backed Oriole is a Category 4 bird in the American Birding Association Checklist of North American birds.  Category 4 is defined as:  “Casual-Species not recorded annually in [North America] but with 6 or more total sightings of which at least 3 must have been within the past 30 years.”  The Black-vented Oriole is a Category 5, the rarest of all, defined as: “Accidental-Species recorded 5 or fewer times in North America, or fewer than 3 in the past 30 years.”  So, the Black-vented Oriole, became Bird Number 696 on my life list of North American bird identifications.  Not only that, but it completed my list of members of the Blackbird (Icteridae) family in North America. 

black-vented-oriole

By 8:30 a.m I was driving east on Highway 83 to make a repeat visit to the landscaping business/residence of Allen Williams, on the east side of McAllen.  I arrived about 9:00 and joined a group of 3 college students from New Hampshire who were using their college break for a one-week birding tour of Texas.  It was not long before one of them spotted the bird of interest, a Crimson-collared Grosbeak.  She (referring to the bird) (clearly “she”, because of the absence of any hint of crimson in the feathers of this dimorphous species) is  dull green with a distinct black hood.  Allen Williams has restored the area around his home to pre-settlement vegetative state, enhanced by water features.  It is an oasis in an urban setting for rare and unusual birds who find themselves out of their normal territory.  He welcomes birders, with prearrangement by phone and a small contribution to maintenance of the area.  This year, the female Crimson-collared Grosbeak has been on-site since mid-November and many birders have had the pleasure of seeing it, although on some days, it does not make itself known.  Thanks, Allen.  This ABA Category 4 bird became number 697 on my life list.  This trip was already exceeding all my expectations. 

At 9:30 I was on the road again, this time heading east and south to Estero Llano Grande State Park, south of Weslaco.  On December 29th there was a report that a White-throated Thrush (until recently called a White-throated Robin) was seen there.  It had been seen subsequently on several occasions when it came to drink at a water feature in the Park.  This ABA Category 5 bird was obviously of great interest to the birding community, as there were at least 15 birders standing near or sitting on conveniently located benches a short distance away from the water feature.  I sat.  And sat.  And sat.  No bird.  Maybe my luck was ending.  A young man sat next to me whom I recognized as having been in the group looking at the Black-vented Oriole a couple of hours earlier.  We visited to pass the time of day.  At 2:30, an older gentleman wearing “Park Volunteer” identification came by to tell me (I and a recently arrived photographer, originally from Johnston, Iowa, were the only ones still sitting and waiting) that he had just seen the bird in some thick undergrowth at the edge of the Park.  We quickly walked the short distance.  We were quickly joined by 15 or more other eager seekers, including the New Hampshire college students and Chris, the young man who had been with me at the water feature and oriole site earlier.  Chris spotted the bird and got some pictures.  I did not at first see it, but later I was able to get a terrific look as it sat still on an open branch.  Hurrah!!!  Life bird number 698, and the day was not over.  Maybe I could go look for my often sought and never seen Rufous-backed Robin. 

White-throated Thrush

white-throated-thrush

By 3:00 p.m. I was back on Highway 83 heading east through Rio Hondo to the Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Reserve.  A Rufous-backed Robin was being reported there intermittently from the third week of November.  I had gone to try to find it on two different days a month or so earlier, with no success.  But this day was my lucky day.  About 5:00 p.m. the Rufous-backed Robin appeared at the water feature where about a dozen or so eager birders were silently hoping for that event.  Silent cheering on the part of all.  As luck would have it, Chris, mentioned earlier, was also there.  I asked if he would send me some of the photos he had taken of the Oriole, the Thrush and the Robin, and he promised to do so.  And he did so promptly.  The pictures accompanying this blog were provided through the courtesy of Chris Warren of San Marcos, Texas.  He is a fine birder and even if he doesn’t have 30 pounds of equipment, he managed some pretty good shots of these rare North American visitors.  Thanks, Chris. 

Rufous-backed Robin

rufous-backed-robin

So, what is the (all important) count?  Right:  699.  I knew immediately at that point that I was not going to look at a bird on the way back to McAllen to catch an early flight home.  If I racked up number 700 in the absence of my photographic assistant and travelling companion, Barbara, I absolutely would be persona non grata at home.  Ah, me!!!  From the glories of 70 degree days, sunny skies and soft breezes in south Texas, to a whipping snow storm, freezing temps and dark skies in Iowa.  Yet, life is sweet.  Oh, and did I mention:  the Rufous-backed Robin is just a Category 3 bird, meaning, “Rare-Species occurs annually in very low numbers.”   This was very likely the most fruitful day of birding I will ever have in North America, if you grade it by the combined numbers (4) of new life birds multiplied by their difficulty of finding (5, 4, 4, and 3).  If my math is correct, it was a Category 64 day.  Of course, I don’t know of anyone else who grades success that way.  I just thought it up.  Yikes!!!  Have I always been so obsessed with high grades???

Birding is, to use the cliche, interesting.  During this past year or so I have climbed for miles up tall mountains (e.g., to find my Himalayan Snowcocks in the Rubys); I have struggled across spongy, lumpy, Grizzly Bear infected tundra (e.g., to find Bristle-thighed Curlews near Nome); I have enjoyed the Boston Symphony preparatory to looking for the Barnacle Goose on a roadside pasture in nearby Concord, from the comfort of my car; I have walked through rain and mist in freezing temperatures by Hudson’s Bay in New Brunswick (to see a Pink-footed Goose); I have endured a night in third-tier bunk on a wave tossed boat in the Pacific in a two-day (fruitless) search for Pelagic species; and a wild and bumpy day-long ride on a fast boat in the Atlantic scouting for Atlantic Pelagic species; and other, diverse searches, including, of course the most successful and least strenuous of all:  sitting and waiting for “The Bird” to show up at a favorite destination, such as a water feature at Llano Grande State Park or at Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Preserve, in Texas.   While waiting for the specific, much of the general can be seen.  Of most recent memory are the lovely Mexican Blue Butterflies that Chris identified and that filled the air around me while I was sitting in the shade on a warm, sunny winter afternoon in South Texas.

Streak-backed Orioles in Arizona

“I’ve got an ocean front property in Arizona; from the front porch you can see the sea!”  So goes the song.  This week my version is: “I  found some Streak-backed Orioles in Arizona; from the front road you can see their tree.” 

Actually I went to Phoenix primarily hoping to find the Baikal Teal that had been seen at the Gilbert Riparian Park for a week or so.  Never before had this northern Asian species been seen in Arizona, and very infrequently has it been seen in the United States.  There is some question whether this one is really is a wild bird or whether it has escaped from an exotic bird farm of some sort.  Unfortunately, the Baikal Teal has not been seen for several days, beginning the day before the day I was there.  The day I spent at the Riparian Park looking for the Baikal Teal was the hottest on record for that date in the Phoenix area.  From 10 above on the Fahrenheit scale in Iowa to 90 above within 6 hours was a bit of a challenge.  The Riparian Park itself, however, is a lovely spot with lots of birds of many species, so the day was not wasted. 

My second day in Arizona was to be devoted to finding  Streak-backed Orioles.  Reports had been fairly regular and encouraging that two of these Mexican species had adopted as their winter residence a farm grove at the edge of an agricultural area between Weldon and Tacna, just east of Yuma, AZ.  I arrived there early on the road adjacent to the farmhouse and grove.  No one else was there.  The temperature was closer to what I left in Iowa than to what I had encountered the day before in Phoenix.  I walked up and down the road several times and about 9:00 a.m. I spotted 2 orioles at the top of a Pomegranate Tree.  They were being very cooperative, foraging at the top of the tree not hidden by foliage.  I was virtually certain they were the Streak-backed species, but I could not make out the streaks on their backs with my binoculars.  Fortuitously, a young man arrived about that time, binoculars in hand.  We soon connected and confirmed that we were seeking the same bird.  I showed him the spot where I had seen the Orioles, and we both were able to observe them for several minutes.  I lamented that I would really like a telescopic view to be completely satisfied as to their identity, but that I had not brought a scope with me in order to travel more lightly.  He replied that that would be no problem.  He went to his car and came back with a telescope and we were both able to scope the birds well for several minutes, with clear identification of the distinctive marks of Streak-backed Orioles.  Very satisfying.      Thus, Streak-backed Oriole became my 695th North American species.  It is a beautiful bird, to boot.  This completes my sweep of all 9 of the Oriole species listed in Sibley’s Field Guide.  National Geographic lists a 10th, the Black-vented Oriole, which is even rarer.  Interestingly, someone has just reported seeing a Black-vented Oriole in southern Florida.  But with the holidays at hand, that trip will have to be deferred.  Moreover, I think only one person has reported finding it and I would not make the trip based on that skimpy record. 

After we had both had our fill of viewing the Orioles, Alex asked if I had seen the Bean Goose that has been hanging out at the Salton Sea in California.  I said I had not, but that I had seen one of that species on Adak when I was there a few years ago.  He said he was going to drive over to try to find it as it would be a new Life Bird for him.  I decided to join him and we “convoyed” over to the Salton Sea.  We encountered thousands and thousands of beautiful white Snow Geese at the Salton Sea, but the Bean Goose had chosen that day to hang out somewhere else, so I left without finding it.  Alex, a grad student at the University of Arizona, however, stayed on to make full use of his day without classes. 

My final target bird for this Arizona trip was the Rufous-backed Robin.  Yes, the very same elusive species that I had sought fruitlessly in Texas a week or so ago.  This required a trip back to Arizona and half way across the southern part, to a spot not far north of Nogales called Santa Gertrudis Lane.  This is a fascinating little area providing access to the banks of the Santa Crus River.  It was dedicated to public use by the original owner of the ranch that has now been carved into many smaller pieces, but all the owners are obligated to abide by the public use requirement of the Lane that they also must use to reach their properties.  Once again, this secretive Robin avoided my detection.  Early in the morning when I was the only birder on the Lane, a car stopped and the driver started a conversation with something like, “I don’t quite know how to tell you this but I guess the best way is to just tell it like it is.  Last night a couple of miles down the road a Border Patrol Agent was murdered by members of a Mexican Drug Gang.  Some of them were caught, but one or two have escaped and are at large in this area.  I suggest that you stick to the main roads today for your own safety.  This road is safe, but I would not go back into the bush along the river.”  We proceeded to visit for a while and when he found out I was a lawyer he had a good laugh and a couple of lawyer jokes to tell me, which I appreciated!!!  He is a retired aviator who bought a 200 acre ranch at the end of the Lane and I learned a lot about the problems of having so many people living down that road.  Later in the day, he came by again and invited me to come see his place, so I got in his vehicle, we forded the river, and drove around his ranch for an hour or so.  I didn’t see many birds but I really enjoyed seeing the ranch (he boards horses for others for $215 per month, and has up to 90 horses on board during the winter months).  He provided me with a supply of bottled water and drove me back across the river so I would not get my feet wet.  I spent the rest of the day looking for the Robin, with no success.  I do want to express my thanks to the good Samaritan, George, who gave me good advice and a friendly reception.

Irony of ironies, when I checked my Rare Bird Report Site this morning, there was a report by my birding  neighbors here in West Des Moines, Reid and Pam Allen, that they saw the Rufous-backed Robin yesterday at the very same location in Texas where I spent a day and a half two weeks ago, looking for it.  Oh, well, maybe some day I will find that darn bird.

Rare birds in Texas

Monday I went to McAllen, TX to search for the Rufous-backed Robins that were being seen at the National Butterfly Center in Mission and at the Laguna Atascosa NWR on the coast.  I drove to the Laguna Atascosa Visitor Center, arriving about 2:00 p.m.  With a couple of others, I kept watch for the rest of the afternoon on the little brook at which this skulky Robin had been seen on several prior occasions.  I believe I saw it but the lighting conditions were not the best, and since none of the other observers saw it,  I would have to say that it was a possible sighting, and not one that I could be sure of. 

Plan B was to go to the National Butterfly Center the next morning, Tuesday.  Morning sightings of a Rufous-backed Robin had been fairly reliable there of late.  However, by 5:00 p.m. I was weary and the gates were about to be locked so I left, with no bird seen.  The day was lovely and there were plenty of nice birds to be seen as I sat (or stood)  by the water feature.  Prominent among them were the colorful Green Jays and Great Kiskadees.  About 20 other less colorful species  came by during the course of the day.   These included several that are not found in Iowa, such as  Plain Chachalacas, Black-crested Tufted Titmice, and Long-billed Thrashers, (which I first mistakenly identified as Brown Thrashers, until corrected by one of the local bird/butterfly enthusiasts).  Most of the others seen there are commonly also seen in Iowa.  Several local butterfly experts stopped to visit and offer encouragement.  These were  mostly former birders who have, as they freely admitted,  gone over to the “Dark Side” (Butterflying).  In fact, as the day turned warm and sunny, the butterflies were numerous and pretty and added a welcome diversion from  the long and fruitless search for the Rufous-backed. 

With one more partial day to go, I decided to return to Laguna Atascosa.  While I was there on Monday, the staff at the center told me that they have had a number of sightings of Aplomado Falcons on the preserve in recent years, including recent days.  I have never seen one of these lovely raptors in North America.  If the Rufous-backed Robin was going to elude me, at least I might come back with one new North American Life Bird to add to my list and, indeed, I did.  In fact 2 of them.  As I was nearing the Preserve at about 8:00 a.m., one was perched on a utility wire along the road and held still for a very nice view.  Then, as I entered the Preserve, a second one put on an aerial show that was amazing, including the capture of some sort of small creature in a grassy field along the road.  The Aplomado Falcon, primarily a Central and South American resident, was once somewhat common in south Texas, but was extirpated from the area for a large part of the 20th century.  A reintroduction program at Laguna Atascosa has been quite successful and in the past two or three years, more of them are being seen on and around the Preserve.  The winds became very strong and birding was extremely difficult, so I decided not spend any more time at the Preserve.

My final search of the day was at the Allen Williams’ residence and landscaping operation in Pharr, TX.  Allen has had a female Crimson-collared Grosbeak, another Mexican visitor, on his property for several days and this would be a new life-bird for me.  Unfortunately, high winds and bad timing joined me on this visit, which I had to cut short to make it to my plane on time.  Thanks to Mrs. Williams and her mother, I was able to enjoy a tasty hot flavored tea drink during  my brief search about their property.  Their gracious hospitality was very much appreciated.

Ross’s and Little Gulls in South Dakota

Shortly before Thanksgiving day the North American Rare Bird Alert posted the finding of a Ross’s Gull at the Gavin Point Dam area on the Missouri River near Yankton, SD.  This was the first ever reported sighting in Nebraska and the second ever in South Dakota.  The Iowa Bird Line picked it up and sent out an alert to its subscribers suggesting that a trip across the border might be in order to see this rare “lower 48” visitor.  Shortly before noon on Saturday I drove to Yankton, arriving around 3:30.  I searched for the Ross’s among the flurry of Bonapartes and Ringbilled Gulls air-fishing in the tailrace below the dam.  No luck.  I drove across the dam and turned right, toward a complex of frozen ponds.  There several birders had their scopes lined up looking at the Ross’s Gull, which was sitting on the ice in the midst of a flock of Ringbills and Bonapartes.  I am learning that one of the best strategies for finding rare birds is to first look for the rare bird searchers. 

The Gull was very cooperative as it sat and walked on the ice for nearly an hour.  It then flew off into the sunset so I was unable to get a good view of it in flight.  However, the sitting and walking views were satisfactory.  The bird was clearly pink on the breast and belly.  The black ring band on the back of the neck was not present, as is to be expected in a winter bird.  It looked a lot like a little seal with its round, white face with large black eyes and black bill as it sat on the ice looking directly at us.  The eyes seemed unusually large for a gull.  I was happy to add this bird to my Life List as number 692.  I have considered travelling to the Churchill area in northern Manitoba to view the Ross’s Gulls that have been seen there in recent years, (although in very limited numbers now) but it was much more convenient  to drive to Yankton from Des Moines. 

While chatting with the other birders who were looking at the Ross’s, one of them mentioned that a Little Gull had been seen at the Oahe Dam north of Pierre, SD.  I decided to extend my visit to SD and stayed overnight at Yankton.  I left for Pierre about 4:00 a.m. the next morning.  I arrived about 8:00 and after a quick breakfast, began my search for the Little Gull.  At first, the only gulls visible were too far out on the reservoir to identify.  I looked down-river and around the dam, with no luck.  About 10:30, the gulls started moving and I was able to locate the Little Gull on an ice-covered pond very near the power plant,  just below the dam.  It was nestled on the near side of a large flock of resting Ringbilled Gulls, Bonapartes Gulls, one Black-legged Kittiwake and one Glaucous Gull.  The little Gull was very close to the West Tailrace track,  so the view was excellent.  It was easily distinguished from the sometimes confusing Bonapartes because of its much smaller size.  It was a first-winter gull, with a lot of black on the wings.   This became my North American Life Bird number 693.  I have previously searched for Little Gulls reported once in Dickinson County, IA and annually by Lake Michigan in Manitowoc, Wisconsin, without success.    The 700 magic number is getting surprisingly close.  I doubt that I will reach it in 2010, but with any luck, 2011 will be the year.  These two gulls were high on my list of “Want to See”, so it felt like an early Christmas present.  I guess I fit right in with the Black Friday/Saturday mad shoppers, only I don’t have to wait in line for the stores to open.