India 2010-Part 2

A few days ago I told about  planning our trip to India and traveling there.     In Part 2 I will summarize our experiences during the first few days of our tour of northern India.

Wednesday, January 20

We arrived in New Delhi at 1:00 a.m. (12:30 p.m. on the 19th in Iowa), 51 hours after leaving our house. The AK representative, Amid, was there to meet us and take us to the Radisson. He was such a welcome sight and so helpful. This was supposed to be our day to tour Delhi, but because of the delays of our flights, we have postponed our Delhi sightseeing to the end of our trip.  After a very nice buffet breakfast at the Radisson, Amid and a driver took us to the airport to get our flight to Khajaraho. Our flight (on Jet Airways) was delayed, then cancelled due to fog. This fog is following us everywhere. We were rushed to the Kingfisher Airlines counter to get the last 2 seats on a flight leaving in 2 minutes. We sped through security, through the gates and onto a transporter to our plane.  Then we sat while the airport closed for one hour due to the fog. We were served lunch, and then waited some more. Finally, the plane took off for Khajaraho, with an intermediate stop in Varanasi. After arriving in Khajaraho 2 hours late, we were met by Ashok (the local AK representative) and Laksman (the driver) and taken to the Lalit Temple View Hotel. We were then met by our Khajaraho guide who took us on a tour of the Western and Eastern Temples. What a spectacular sight!

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Eighty five temples (twenty two remain) were built during the reign of the Chandella kings between 950-1050 AD.  The Indo-Aryan architecture is adorned with erotic carvings capturing life in all forms.

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Thursday, January 21 
 
We rose early again, but what a treat because after we got ready for the day, we opened our
draperies and saw the Western Temples glowing in the morning sunshine above the pool atour hotel (hence the name, “Lalit Temple View Hotel”). We grabbed our coats and camera and went outside to enjoy the beautiful morning with no fog. Hurray!!

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Breakfast at the Hotel, then off with the car to drive to Bandhavgarh National Tiger Preserve. This was a real eye-opening (6 hour) road trip. The roads are awful, and the driving was crazy, but our driver seemed very good. Town after town and village after village lining the “road”, nothing but people who just barely subsist. We saw many people carrying wood on their heads to use for cooking or heating. No running water; no electricity, village pumps for water. Children going to school, mostly in bright, neat uniforms. Most men seemingly doing nothing. Women working very hard and all dressed in colorful wraps (saris) and scarves. Cattle everywhere, some being herded, most wandering freely, including in the middle of the road and along all the streets. Everyone is thin and all the boys and men have nice haircuts. We have never seen so many bicycles and motorcycles, many with up to 4 persons on board.

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We arrived at the Tiger’s Den at Bandhavgarh in time for lunch and to drop our stuff in our room. On to our first game drive. We did not see a tiger, but we did see lots of spotted deer, several sambhar, wild boars, barking deer, common langurs, rhesus macaques and one jungle cat. We also saw several birds including this  Stork-billed Kingfisher. Back for dinner and off to bed.

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Friday, January 22
They brought coffee (Nescafe) and cookies to our room at 5:30 a.m. so we could be ready for our morning drive at 6:15. We did not see a tiger this morning, but it was nice to see the area. It is very cold here for this time of year, frost appearing on the ground. Back to the Den for a late breakfast. Out again for the afternoon drive at 2:15 p.m. Yeahhh!!! A Tiger. He is a 3-year old male lying in grass in the shade of a small tree. The lighting is not good for photography, but at least we got to see him. He rolled over, yawned, and went back to sleep. He was much bigger than we expected. We also saw more birds including many peacocks, the national bird of India, and a monitor lizard hibernating in the crevice of a tree. It has been a very successful day. 

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Saturday, January 23
We were up early after Barbara’s first night of sleeping all the way through. Coffee and cookies arrived promptly at 5:30 and we were out on our morning game drive by 6:15, but no tigers this morning. The other vehicle from our camp saw one up close and got great photos. The afternoon drive was quite uneventful until the last minute when Jagat heard of a tiger spotting. Lots of jeeps were there watching the same tiger as the day before, named Kahula. He walked toward us following the elephants. He stopped laid down, rolled around and then settled down. WOW!!! A good day, after all. 

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Sunday, January 24
Instead of going on another game drive, we went to the Red Fort. It was such a nice morning and there was only one other vehicle there. We could see, at a great distance down on the plain, a tigress with 3 cubs, behind some trees along Route A. It was a little hazy but we could see a long way in every direction. We visited a temple with a priest. Saw a few Malabar Hornbills.

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Back for breakfast and an early lunch before driving back to Khajaraho through all the town and villages.  Near Satna we saw a parade of Jain priests and followers walking on (clogging) the road. Each priest was totally naked, in keeping with Jain tradition, and accompanied by a group of 20 or so followers, many wearing white robes. We learned from our AK representative on the trip that the Jain priests never ride in or on anything, but walk wherever they go. He thought they might be heading for some seminar or similar gathering. Finally back in Khajaraho, we checked in at the Lalit Temple View Hotel again and then walked down town for supper at a local restaurant, the “Raj”.  In India, we drank only bottled water, with no ice, so it was a very pleasant surprise to discover the local “Kingfisher” beer which is quite good and was usually cold. Even though Khajaraho is a relatively small village, the streets, as always, were crowded with walkers, bikers, cows and water buffalo, but we never felt uncomfortable except in trying to avoid stepping in chuck-holes and cow pies in the quite dark street. On our walk back to the hotel we were impressed by how dark India towns are at night. Most of the lighting that was on consisted of kerosene lamps or gas lanterns. Our flashlight is a necessity.

Himalayan Snowcock above Island Lake, Ruby Mountains

I went to Elko, Nevada, on July 29th, 2010, determined to see a Himalayan Snowcock, which hopefully would be # 684 on my list of North American birds.  Upon our arrival late afternoon on the 29th my wife and I hiked the well-marked trail from the parking lot at the end of Lamoille Canyon to the near side of Island Lake.  This was not a good idea. 

Because it was late in the day, from the lakeside, there was neither sight nor sound of a Himalayan Snowcock.  The scenery, however, was breathtaking.  This is one of the nicest, most scenic mountain hiking trails I have ever trod.  The mountains, waterfalls, streams, mountain flowers, birds and little four-footed creatures were all lovely in their own special ways.  The sunset view descending the canyon was stunning.

The next morning, July 30th,  my wife and I hiked the trail again, but more slowly than the evening before.  It took us about an hour and a half from the parking lot to Island Lake.  Initially we experienced the same results as the evening before: no Snowcocks.   We began to wonder if we had arrived too late in the day, again.  It was then about 8:00 a.m. 

We decided to go up higher by hiking around the right side of the lake.  As we were doing this we met a returning birder who told us that he had seen and heard the Snowcocks that morning, high on the cirque above the lake.  We continued onward and upward, scrambling breathlessly over a couple of  ridges without trails, until we arrived at the edge of what we later learned from a couple of young local hikers is called the “Hanging Garden”.  We stopped at the edge of that “bog”, because it was too wet to cross.  We could at this point clearly hear Snowcocks calling high up on the cirque, in what seemed to be several different locations. 

We began the painstaking process of scanning my telescope across the upper reaches of the cirque from whence we believed the calls were concentrated.  Soon, to my great excitement,  a Snowcock came into view in my scope, and both I and my wife were able to observe it very well for several minutes as it slowly pecked its way along the thin and sparse line of vegetation on the steep slope above the blackish part of the vertical wall of the cirque.   My wife, the photographer, was able to see the Snowcock in the scope but she was not able to find it through her camera lens, so we did not get a picture.  We did spot a Mountain Goat, and she was barely able to photograph it.

I was informed that Black Rosy-finches (which would be a life bird) were nesting in the heights above Island Lake, but I was not fortunate enough to find any.  Nor did I spot a Calliope Hummingbird, the other potential life bird that has been seen occasionally in the Canyon.

We enjoyed our banana, cheese and bagel repaste back in the shade at the edge of the lake, birded the area a bit, and then hiked (slowly) back down to the parking area.  We were very happy to have seen our primary target, which can be found nowhere in North America but in the Ruby Mountains.  The Black Rosy-finches and Calliope Hummingbirds will wait for another day in another place. 

A word about the hike:  it is not terribly steep, but if you aren’t in good shape, take it slow.  We are (well, ok, I am) not very physically fit for a trek like this, but we managed to do it twice in two days with no permanent adverse consequences.  The hike to the lake is about 2 miles, and the extension that we took the second day is probably another half mile or so.  At about 10,000 feet, the air is noticeably thin and we needed to pause for breath every now and then on the way up.

An Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush, North America’s Rarest Bird this Week

     This week the bird hot-lines were hotter than usual all over the country.  A South Dakota birder working on the South Dakota Breeding Bird Atlas Survey was parked by a stream running through Spearfish Canyon in South Dakota. As he worked on his survey he heard a bird song that he knew was different from the South Dakota birds whose songs he readily recognized.   He began a search for the reclusive singer, got good views and adequate photos, and ultimately determined that it was an Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush.  He published his finding on the internet, and the Black Hills Bird Rush began. 

     Without the photos, I don’t suppose the birding powers that be would have believed him, notwithstanding his solid birding reputation.  This Thrush is a South and Central American bird which has, to the best of my knowledge, only been identified twice before in North America.  Both of the prior sightings were several years ago, near the Rio Grande.  When he posted his finding, members of the birding community “flocked” to Spearfish from all over the country to try to add this real rarity to their North American Life Lists. 

     When I arrived in mid-afternoon at the well described site, there was no one else there so I sat by the stream, ears tuned, to try to hear the bird.  Shortly after I arrived, Jennifer Fowler pulled into the parking area. Jennifer is a local birder, a South Dakota Bird Atlassing field worker, and a science teacher.  She had undertaken the role of keeping track of the bird and the visiting birders, and helping out all the birders who had and were continuing to come to find it.  Her list of birders was at least 150 names long, including some of the nation’s best recognized, and she was certain that she had missed some.  The list included a good representation of local birders, as well as many from far away places, such as California, Arizona and Florida.   

     Soon after she arrived she cocked her ear toward up-stream, and summoned me to follow her, which I readily did.  We continued to hear, but not see, the bird, as it moved about quickly in the heavy understory of leaves in the trees along the stream.  Several more searchers arrived, and as the evening approached we were all thrilled to get good views of the long-singing Thrush.  ( I suppose the name “Nightingale” may be a clue as to its proclivity to proclaim).  Many thanks to Jennifer.

     The next morning I returned to the site and was rewarded with an excellent scope view of the bird as it sunned itself briefly on an open branch.  I should add that I saw several Orange-billed Nightingale Thrushes in Costa Rica when I was birding there in 2002.  Mission accomplished, however; it is now on my North American Life List as # 682.

Fawn Ornaments

 

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This week, on the hottest afternoon of our summer, we had 2 little fawn ornaments enjoying the shade in our front yard.  When I came home about 4:00 p.m. I was able, without spooking them, to drive past them and get in the house to alert my wife to their presence.  The twins were not a bit camera-shy, so she was able to get some nice pictures. 

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And thus we had our own private experience of the Afternoon of the Fawn(s).  If you are interested in some really ethereal poetry, check out Mallarme’s poem bearing that title, (inexplicably misspelling “Fawn”, as “Faun”).  Or, perhaps I misunderstood it.

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Wild Turkey Poults and Dust Bathing

 

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Today the 3 wild turkey hens and 11 poults returned to our yard by Brown’s Woods in West Des Moines, Iowa, and spent an hour or so dust bathing.  I understand the dust bathing ritual may involve efforts to clean the grease from their feathers, eliminate small parasites and/0r cool off.  The little ones seem to learn fast.

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Nome Birds

     In June of this year I traveled to Nome (Alaska) to look for 5 new North American Life Birds:  Arctic Loon, Gyrfalcon, Bristle-thighed Curlew, Bluethroat and White Wagtail.  I hired a local tour guide (Richard Benneville) for the first day or so because I was unable to find a rental car and because he was available and knows the territory, although he is not and does not bill himself as a bird expert or guide.  His forte is the history and culture of the Nome area, but he does have a good sense of where to find birds and animals.  I stayed at one of the hotels and was able to rent a vehicle for 3 of the 5 days I was there.  Actually, the rental cost and gas price ($4.50 per gallon) totalled more than what I paid to Richard on a daily basis, so he was a bargain. 

     There were a lot of birders around, many with tour groups such as VENT and Fieldguides.  I am told that this is the case every June.  At the hotel desk was a place to write down the big discoveries of the day, and it was a helfpful resource.  Nome is remotely located on the Seward Peninsula.  There are 3 roads out of Nome, each ending at small villages 75 or 80 miles out.  The only practical access to Nome from elsewhere in Alaska is by air, or, in summer, by sea.  The ice was just breaking up when I was there.  The weather was cold, windy, foggy and rainy practically all the time.  Daylight prevailed about 21 hours of the day.  The rain was generally light mist, so birding could be accomplished if you don’t mind being damp and cold.  My long underwear got a lot of use. 

     My first trip was out the Teller Highway.  With me on this trip with Richard were the Bartells, very experienced birders.  The birding was good, but I did not find any of my target birds.  We saw quite a few Arctic Warblers and other warblers, including Yellow, Wilson’s and Northern Waterthrush.  We had hoped to find White Wagtails in Teller, where they have been regularly reported in prior years, but diligent hunts yielded none.  We enjoyed a visit with Norbert, a resident of Teller, at his home.  The local residents said they had not seen any White Wagtails yet this year. 

     The next day we took the Council Highway.  I found two Arctic Loons at Safety Sound.   A nest with 2 nearly fledged Gyrfalcons was easily visible on the middle pillar of the second bridge over the Soloman River.  We did not spot either parent, however.  This is an interesting road and we saw quite a few birds along the way.  We spent some time in Council by the Niukluk River where Richard was picking up a couple from  Israel who had spent the previous night at the campsite of a local outfitter.  On the way back we had good looks at a Golden Eagle on her nest along side the road. 

     The next 3 days I was on my own.  I drove out the Kougarok Road, hoping to find and join up with other hikers  to make the trek across the Tundra at Mile Marker 72, across from Coffee Dome.  This is the historic nesting area for Bristle-thighed Curlews.  The trek is teacherous for 2 reasons:  one, it is Grizzly Bear country, so it is unwise to go alone; and two, the tundra over which you must walk to get to the nesting area on the ridge is very rough and difficult to traverse, especially for a 76 year-old with arthritic knees.  Although I saw two hikers up on the ridge, I decided against trying to catch up with them, and, instead, drove on to the end of the Kougarok Road, or at least as far as it was open. 

     On my last day, I once again drove to Mile Marker 72 in hopes of seeing some Curlews fly over, or of finding a group to join on the hike.  After a few hours, I gave up and started to drive back to Nome when I saw an oncoming car with a family group of birders that I had seen on a couple of previous occasions.  We slowed for each other and they said they were going to make the trek to try to find the Curlews.  They were very gracious and welcomed me to join them.  I did, and we were very successful in finding not just one, but several clearly seen and heard Bristle-thighed Curlews, quite easily distinguished by their call, color and bill shape from the otherwise similar Whimbrels which inhabit the same area.  This was the highlight of my trip.  Thankyou, Suyama family. 

     I was disappointed in not finding White Wagtails or the Bluethroats, in spite of hours of effort.  Others did see Bluetails, but for everyone it was an arduous search.  I believe no one found any White Wagtails in the area.

     Some folks that I met on the trip asked me to list the birds I saw, so here they are:  Red-throated Loons; Pacific Loons, Arctic Loons, Pelagic Cormorants, Tundra Swans, Brant, Mallards, American Wigeon, Pintails, Greater Scaup, Common Eiders, Long-tailed Ducks, Red-breasted Mergansers, Rough-legged Hawks, Gyrfalcons, Rock Ptarmagin, Willow Ptarmagin, Sandhill Cranes, Pacific Golden Plover, Whimbrels, Semi-palmated Sandpipers, Western Sandpipers, Red-necked Phalaropes, Parasitic Jaegers, Long-tailed Jaegers (many), Mew Gulls, Glaucous Gulls, Glaucous-winged Gulls, ARctic Terns, Ravens, Horned Lark, American Pipits, Tree Swallows, Violet-green Swallows, Cliff Swallows, Arctic Warblers, Northern Wheatear, Gray-cheeked Thrushes, Robins, Yellow Wagtails, Orange-crowned Warblers, Yellow Warblers, Northern Waterthrush, Tree Sparrows, Fox Sparrows, Savannah Sparrows, White-crowned Sparrows, Lapland Longspurs, Rusty Blackbird, Common Redpolls, Hoary Redpolls, Golden Eagle, Green-winged Teal, White-fronted Geese, Canada Geese, Bristle-thiged Curlews, Golden Crowned Sparrows, Black Scoter, Harlequin Ducks, Semi-palmated Plover, Northern Shrike and Northern Harrier.

The 4th of July and Zoos

On this 6th of July, 2010 I am thankful for the gift of having been born in the USA.  I owe my emigrant grandparents and first generation USA parents more than they can ever know.  My thanks to them.  We in America have our problems, our disagreements,  our uncertain futures and, increasingly it seems, our haters, but this is still the best place in the world to live and enjoy the freedom, the economic opportunities and the educational opportunities that are not surpassed anywhere else in the world.  Each generation of Americans has to make some sacrifices to preserve and earn  freedom and opportunity for all of its members, and I am hopeful that the generations following this septuagenarian appreciate what they have and will make the necessary sacrifices for it.

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The holiday week-end was spent with family, including a shower at our home for the next grandchild, during which a few of us male members took my 5, 4 and 3 year old grandchildren to the Des Moines Zoo.  The threat of rain resulted in a small crowd, but the rain held off.  We all enjoyed seeing  red pandas, birds, giraffes, gibbons, sea lions, seals,  lions, a serval, a snow leopard, lesser kudus,  and other animals.   My favorite was the pair of red pandas.  The grandchildren enjoyed the bird show, with Saurus Cranes, Andean Condor, Galahs, Emus, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, and Peregrine Falcon  performing wondrous feats in exchange for treats.

I prefer to see birds in the wild, but the zoos of the world, at least the better ones, including Des Moines Blank Park Zoo, are performing a necessary service in displaying and often preserving our birds and other wildlife for the enjoyment of the majority of us who do not or cannot venture forth in the great outdoors to see these threatened natural wonders of the world.

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The evening of the 4th we all gathered again at home for a hamburger and brat cook-out, followed by the traditional homemade vanilla ice cream.

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It was a wonderful day and we are sorry only that all of the family, including our overseas serviceman, were unable to participate.

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Lawrence’s Goldfinches

Last week-end I went to Los Angeles to meet Steve Sosensky, a local bird guide, who had told me that he probably could help me find Lawrence’s Goldfinches.  I have been birding in California on several occasions and have seen most of the California terrestrial birds, but have never succeeded in finding Lawrence’s Goldfinches.  On Sunday, June 27 Steve took me to Big Tujunga Canyon where a large burn occurred last year.  We quickly found 10-12 Lawrence’s Goldfinches flying back and forth across the road, and flitting about in a thin stand of tall, thin evergreens and mixed deciduous trees.  I was very happy to find them, and especially to get such close and numerous views.  Thanks, Steve, for a pleasant day and helping me find North American Life Bird # 681.

Scarlet Tanager

Earlier this week a Scarlet Tanager collided with our deck door window.  I am afraid it nearly did him in, but Barbara put out a shallow tray of water and shaded him, and within a half hour he was moving about and flew away.  I hope he is ok…

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