{"id":1172,"date":"2018-03-13T09:42:11","date_gmt":"2018-03-13T14:42:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/?p=1172"},"modified":"2020-09-10T16:03:26","modified_gmt":"2020-09-10T21:03:26","slug":"chile-february-2018-part-1-santiago-and-valparaiso","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/?p=1172","title":{"rendered":"Chile &#8211; February 2018 &#8211; Part 1     Santiago and Valparaiso"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I visited central and northern Chile from December 2 -14, 2015 for intensive birding.&nbsp; Barbara&nbsp;did not go on that trip.&nbsp; Those trip reports are filed earlier on this blog.&nbsp; They&nbsp;are in 2 segments, one published March 23, 2016, and the second published one day later.&nbsp; For those interested in&nbsp;checking those blogs, as a kind of background for this one, there is a&nbsp;prophetic conclusion:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSorry, I have no pictures to include in this Blog.&nbsp; Maybe I will have<br \/>\nsome photos on my next trip, when Barbara accompanies me and<br \/>\nexercises her photographic magic.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I originally planned this trip for me only.&nbsp; My primary objective was to go to<br \/>\nPatagonia to see Magellanic Plovers.<\/p>\n<p>I went on-line and found&nbsp;out that Far South Expeditions sponsors privately guided birding day trips&nbsp;out of Punta Arenas (a cruise ship port for Antarctic expeditions) and that&nbsp;Rodrigo would be available for the dates I wanted.&nbsp; I signed up, thinking that<br \/>\nmaybe Barbara would like to join&nbsp;me.&nbsp; She wasn&#8217;t interested, so I sweetened the offer by proposing we spend a few days exploring&nbsp;Santiago and Valparaiso before or after birding around Punta Arenas.&nbsp; She&nbsp;decided that would be interesting, so the trip was expanded to include a few&nbsp;days in each of those cities.<\/p>\n<p>In casual conversation a few days later, I&nbsp;mentioned that quite a few years ago a good friend of mine had highly&nbsp;recommended a visit to Easter Island for its cultural and historical interest.&nbsp;&nbsp;Barbara, to my surprise, said she had dreamed of going to Easter Island&nbsp;ever since she was a child, but did not think she would because it is so&nbsp;remote.&nbsp; If ever there would be a good time to do it, though, it would be by&nbsp;adding it onto our trip to Santiago, the only place with regular plane service&nbsp;to the island.&nbsp; And so we did, and the trip to Chile was expanded from its&nbsp;originally planned 2 or 3 days for me only to 2 weeks for both of us.<\/p>\n<p>Barbara will report on Santiago and Valparaiso.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Santiago<\/strong> is Chile\u2019s capital and largest city with a population of 5.15 million.&nbsp; It sits in a valley surrounded by the snow-capped Andes and the Chilean Coast Range.<\/p>\n<p>Due to early morning flights out on a couple mornings, we found staying at the Holiday Inn across the street from the airport very convenient.&nbsp; It was also a handy place to take advantage of an excellent transportation system. We caught the bus which went to a metro station.&nbsp; From there we could take the subway anywhere in the city.&nbsp; The public transportation system works very well.<\/p>\n<p>Instead of taking organized tours, we prefer to set out on our own to see the sights of our choosing.&nbsp; Our first visit was to <strong>Cerro San Crist\u00f3bal<\/strong>,&nbsp;the second highest point in the middle of the city.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4473.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4473\"><\/p>\n<p>It provides a wonderful <strong>panorama a of the city<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4468.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4468\"><\/p>\n<p>We rode the <strong>funicular<\/strong>&nbsp;up,<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4467.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4467\"><\/p>\n<p>and the <strong>gondola<\/strong>&nbsp;down the other side, saving a lot of walking and climbing.<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4478.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4478\"><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Plaza de Armas&nbsp;<\/strong>is<strong>&nbsp;<\/strong>the heart of the city\u2019s old colonial core.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4499.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4499\"><\/p>\n<p>It is home to 2 neoclassical landmarks: the 1808 Palacio de la Real Audiencia, housing the <strong>National History Museum<\/strong>,<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4490.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4490\"><\/p>\n<p>and the 18th-century <strong>Metropolitan Cathedral<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4492.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4492\"><\/p>\n<p>We enjoyed people-watching and walking around the plaza.&nbsp; Several <strong>men were playing chess&nbsp;<\/strong>under the shade of the trees.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4502.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4502\"><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The&nbsp;<strong><i>Centro<\/i>&nbsp;(Downtown area)<\/strong>&nbsp;is a nice place for a stroll down some of its major streets turned pedestrian walkways. &nbsp;There are also many stores, shopping arcades, fast food restaurants, coffee shops, etc.&nbsp; And a shop with generous portions of tasty gelato.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4503.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4503\"><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4506.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4506\"><\/p>\n<p><strong>Iglesia de San Francisco<\/strong>, a colonial-period Catholic church, is thought to be Chile&#8217;s oldest.&nbsp; It has a neoclassical clock tower.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4531.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4531\"><\/p>\n<p>The <strong>Gran Torre Santiago<\/strong>, the tallest (62-story) building in South America, is quite a contrast.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4482.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4482\"><\/p>\n<p><strong>Valparaiso<\/strong> is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site,&nbsp;a deserved award for its architecture, design, history and cultural contributions.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s known for its <strong>steep streets<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4631.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4631\"><\/p>\n<p>and <strong>colorful, clifftop homes<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4632.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4632\"><\/p>\n<p>Valpara\u00edso played an important role in the second half of the 19th century, when the city served as a major stopover for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific&nbsp;oceans by crossing the Straits of Magellan.&nbsp; Valpara\u00edso mushroomed during its golden age, as a magnet for European immigrants, when the city was known by international sailors as&nbsp; &#8220;The Jewel of the Pacific&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>However, in the first half of the 20<sup>th<\/sup> century, the wealthy residents abandoned the city. The opening of the Panama Canal and reduction in ship traffic dealt a serious blow to Valpara\u00edso\u2019s port-based economy.<\/p>\n<p>Over the past few years, the city has seen a recovery, attracting artists and cultural entrepreneurs who have set up in the city&#8217;s hillside historic districts. &nbsp;Today, many thousands of tourists visit Valpara\u00edso from around the world to enjoy the city&#8217;s <strong>labyrinth of cobbled alleys and colorful buildings<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4636.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4636\"><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4633.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4633\"><\/p>\n<p>The <strong>port of Valpara\u00edso&nbsp; <\/strong>continues to be a major distribution center for container traffic, copper, and fruit exports.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4615.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4615\"><\/p>\n<p>We watched <strong>container ships being loaded<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4608.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4608\"><\/p>\n<p>while dining on <strong>Conger Eel<\/strong><b>, <\/b>a favorite fish in Chile, both <strong>grilled<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4616.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4616\"><\/p>\n<p>and <strong>fried<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4617.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4617\"><\/p>\n<p>The navy has an impressive presence at the beautiful <strong>Plaza Sotomayor<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/wp-content\/gallery\/chile-2018\/blog-4604.jpg\" alt=\"blog-4604\"><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I visited central and northern Chile from December 2 -14, 2015 for intensive birding.&nbsp; Barbara&nbsp;did not go on that trip.&nbsp; Those trip reports are filed earlier on this blog.&nbsp; They&nbsp;are in 2 segments, one published March 23, 2016, and the &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/?p=1172\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,4,7,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1172","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-general","category-international-birding","category-travel","category-uncategorized"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1172","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1172"}],"version-history":[{"count":22,"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1172\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1476,"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1172\/revisions\/1476"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1172"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1172"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emptynestbirder.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1172"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}