Days 1 and 2: Selva Verde Lodge, La Selva Biological Station, and the Sarapiqui River.
My son-in-law, Adam, and I went to Costa Rica on December 5th to spend 8 days birding in 4 locations. Our first stop was the Selva Verde Lodge near La Selva and the Sarapiqui River. We were doubtful of taking our scheduled boat tour on the river because heavy rains the week before our arrival, (and while we were there) had caused the river to rise, and as we saw the brown, swirling waters speed past our lodge, we were somewhat fearful of it. Our guide, Ivan, assured us that the boat we would be on was river-worthy and that it was covered so that we would not be drenched from above during the tour. We trusted his judgment and we were very glad we did. The river cruise was the highlight of our visit to La Selva.
In addition to the many birds seen during our morning cruise on the River, we were treated to great views of both Three-toed and Two-toed Sloths, hanging out high above the River.
Green and Orange Iguanas appeared clinging to the trees along the river. The birds included a lovely Rufescent Tiger-heron, several Green Ibis, a Long-tailed Tyrant (my first), Mangrove Swallows, Buff-rumped Warblers, a Black-cowled Oriole, and many others. Notably absent: crocodiles, perhaps out of view due to the high water.
Back at the Lodge, large numbers of birds and animals were attracted to the banana feeder just outside the dining area, where we could sit with our coffee or tea and observe their coming and going at close range. Among the more spectacular of these were the Black (Chestnut) Mandibled Toucans.
Passerini’s, Blue-Gray and Palm Tanagers, Olive-backed Euphonias, Yellow-crowned Euphonias, and numerous other birds competed for the bananas at the feeder, but were usually out-performed by the Coati and the numerous Variegated Squirrels who knew where to come for an easy meal.
A visit to the La Selva Biological Station (in the rain) produced the new bird of the trip for me, a Snowy Cotinga, unfortunately at a distance and in mist. Peccaries showed up as we completed our rain-drenched tour.
Heliconias Island was on our agenda, and we arrived early afternoon, to intermittent rain and a generally disappointing experience, probably the least interesting destination of the entire trip. Following our truncated and soggy walk around the deteriorating premises, our driver/guide took a side-trip “off the beaten track” in the agricultural country-side on a successful foray to find a rare and endangered Great Green Macaw.
On the pathway between our rooms and the dining area we encountered several Green Poison-arrow Frogs.
In summary, this was a very good destination with good facilities, good guides and good food. We listed a total of 90 birds during our 2-day visit (probably a low count due to the constant rain), of which 4 were life birds for me: (the Snowy Cotinga, Great Green Macaw, Long-tailed Tyrant and a Long-tailed Hermit). The mammals and frogs provided added interest. The lesson we learned is that rainy weather should not dampen the spirits of a couple of intrepid birders.